Surviving Guangzhou, China with weak-ass Mandarin skills
Guangzhou’s modern skyline. (iPhone 6S, 2019)
We knew the risks. It was an unusual circumstance that brought us to Hong Kong. The ongoing protests had impacted tourism, resulting in SIA flights being priced similarly to Scoot flights to Guangzhou, our actual destination. This presented a unique opportunity, though we were aware of the potential for disruptions.
Landing at HKG, things appeared relatively normal. The airport was relatively quiet, and we did not observe any protest activity during our transfer through Hong Kong city.
Kowloon Bay, Hong Kong (2019, iPhone 6S)
A Tesla airport transfer, a surprisingly affordable splurge at HKD60, felt like a touch of luxury compared to the HKD43 Airport Express. I imagined the convenience it would offer if we were staying in a hotel, whisking us directly to the doorstep.
At West Kowloon Station, we purchased our gaotie tickets and settled in, the distance being covered in a mere 70 minutes, though in future I would be more mentally prepared for the $30 price tag and limited luggage space.
Guangzhou unfolded before us, a vibrant tapestry of lights and sounds. We met C, K’s friend from his Boston University days. She whisked us away to a dim sum restaurant, the air thick with the fragrant steam of bamboo baskets.
In the evening, the city revealed its nocturnal splendour, a breathtaking panorama of illuminated skyscrapers reflected in the Pearl River. The view was truly impressive, a testament to Guangzhou's modern dynamism.
Dianxin for lunch. I’ll have to leave out the food recommendations for this article as I last visited back in 2019.
Sautéed lettuce
Day 2: Dongguan, Dim Sum, and the Chinese European Dream
A trip to Dongguan was our agenda for day two, a reunion with K’s other friend, R, a very sharp character working as a lawyer in Hong Kong.
A Chinese company’s innovation campus near to Guangzhou
The highlight of the day was visiting the innovation campus of a world famous IT company. We scored a visit here thanks to R’s behind-the-scene connections. The $1.5 billion complex paid homage to European architecture. Walking through its meticulously recreated streets, echoing the charm of an old European city, felt surreal.
Yet, amidst the architectural splendor, a thought lingered: Europe's magic isn't just in its buildings, but in the soul of its people and its rich tapestry of culture. Without that, it risks becoming a mere theme park - in a similar vein to how some of the most famous cities in Europe have lost their soul. The campus felt like a mild, humming city. Not the real deal, but a pleasant enough place to work.
Dinner introduced us to local Dongguan cuisine, including a delightful vegetable soup featuring caixin (菜心), instantly becoming my new favorite vegetable.
Day 3: Cantonese Hospitality and Gothic Grandeur
Waking up early, we embarked on a day of exploring the old city with C. I was struck by the genuine warmth of her hospitality, she seemed to take it upon herself to ensure her guests are well taken care of. It sparked a quiet reflection on Singaporean and Malaysian attitudes to hosting and meeting visitors.
Sautéed duck
Brunch at a Cantonese restaurant was followed by a visit to the Chen Clan Academy, a masterpiece of traditional Lingnan architecture. We strolled along a bustling shopping street, indulging in a creamy milk pudding, a delightful panna cotta-like treat. The Sacred Heart Cathedral, with its soaring Gothic arches reminiscent of Notre Dame, was the last thing I expected to see here.
A local food market in a back alley, Guangzhou (iPhone 6S, 2019)
Sacred Heart Cathedral, Guangzhou (iPhone 6S, 2019)
A rooftop coffee break provided respite before our ascent of the Canton Tower. The wind whipped around us at the top, a reminder of its impressive height.
Canton Tower at night (iPhone 6S,2019)
Later that day, finally, a breakthrough! My Wise card finally worked, granting access to local ATMs. This trip had been a tech gauntlet—the unreliable Wi-Fi, patchy VPN, and Alipay and WeChat Pay being useless without a local bank account had been a constant source of frustration. Most places also were apprehensive towards cash. Afternote: Today, it is much easier for foreigners to handle payments in China - you can link International Credit Cards to your Alipay or WeChat apps.
CTF Finance Centre, viewed from the Four Seasons’ Hotel, Guangzhou
Day 4: Safari Adventures and Circus Spectacles
Today’s visit to Changlong (Chimelong) Safari Park meant an early start, long journey and queues. Despite the high price tag, I personally felt the park rivalled the Singapore Zoo in quality. The safari experience, driving through enclosures teeming with African wildlife, was quite exhilarating, though the tram moved too quickly for good photos. The rest of the day was spent exploring the sprawling zoo, which easily provided seven to nine hours of entertainment.
Giraffe at Changlong Safari Park (iPhone 16,2019)
The evening's circus performance was equally impressive. It was well produced, and I observed minimal use of animals beyond brief poses. The troupe, hailing from Eastern Europe, carried most of the show and were truly spectacular.
Circus performance at Changlong Park
We ended way past dinnertime and made the journey back to our accommodation, where we enjoyed a late-night feast of Xinjiang-style skewers, a delicious end to a jam-packed day. The novelty of ordering from the top three restaurants over the Meituan app, each delivering a different "course," added a fun twist.
The positive trade-off of the digitilisation of currency, that I was complaining about the day before, would be that China was (and is) super far ahead of Singapore in the variety and availability of remote services over their handphone apps. You could literally stay on your sofa for a week without a compromise in lifestyle.
Day 5: Coconut Broth, Rice Noodles, and River Reflections
Our final full day in Guangzhou began with a culinary revelation: coconut chicken soup. The subtle sweetness of the coconut water infused with chicken broth was a unique and refreshing flavor. Paired with perfectly cooked claypot rice, it was a meal I vowed to recreate back home. The conversation flowed easily, touching on current events, including the ongoing discussions about LGBT rights in China. The apparent lack of religious influence in their political and societal deliberations suggested a potential for more progressive policies compared to Singapore.
Coconut chicken soup what a combination
After lunch, the others headed to the airport, leaving me to explore Guangzhou at my own pace. I wandered along the waterfront, the Pearl River reflecting the city's gleaming skyline. The Guangdong Museum offered a glimpse into the region's history and culture, a worthwhile stop. It is friendly to non-Chinese speakers.
Imperial Records on display at the Guangdong Museum
As the sun began to dip below the horizon, I made my way to Haixinsha Asian Games Park (海心沙亚运公园). The fading light painted the sky in vibrant hues, a beautiful backdrop for a leisurely stroll. I met C for dinner, eager to try Shanxi cuisine. The rice noodles, a far cry from the thin, springy strands I was accustomed to, were thick, with a satisfying chewiness that alluded to skilled craftsmanship. It was a culinary lesson: what we commonly refer to as "noodles" are often rice noodles; true flour noodles possess a distinct heartiness.
C, initially heading back to work, made some time in her busy schedule and rejoined me for a late-night river cruise. The city lights glittered on the water's surface, creating a magical atmosphere. A performance of bian lian (变脸), the mesmerizing art of unbelievably fast face-changing, added a touch of theatre magic to the cruise.
After a final farewell to C, she kindly dropped me off at 1200 Bookstore, a 24-hour haven where I could relax and wait for my airport transfer.
Guangzhou from the Pearl River (iPhone 6S, 2019)
Final Reflections:
I honestly did not know what I was up for when we landed in GZ, this being one of the rare trips where I was not involved in planning. However, Guangzhou far exceeded my expectations. Much of the credit goes to our exceptional hosts, who provided invaluable insight into local life and culture. Guangzhou impressed me with its meticulous urban planning and palpable sense of progress. It felt like there was a strong chance it would surpass Singapore in both cultural development and lifestyle within the near future.
Guangzhou, with its blend of modern architecture and traditional charm, is a truly beautiful city, and it makes me eager to go forth and explore more of China.
